connectionproblem
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connectionproblem [2012/03/20 11:18] dmertz |
connectionproblem [2013/02/28 13:27] twdorris |
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| ==== Diagnostic port wiring ==== | ==== Diagnostic port wiring ==== | ||
| - | If you get desperate and need to confirm that the basic wiring in the car is correct, use the following information to buzz out the connections between the OBDII adapter and the ECU. Note that the image below is of the connector in the car, not the DSMLink adapter. | + | If you get desperate and need to confirm that the basic wiring in the car is correct, use the following information to buzz out the connections between the OBDII adapter and the ECU. Note that the image below is of the connector in the car, not the ECMLink adapter. |
| {{http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/obdiiconnector.gif}} | {{http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/obdiiconnector.gif}} | ||
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| If pin 16 does not show power (it should have 12v at all times when measured against pin 5), the fuse powering this pin may be blown. The same fuse powers the key illumination ring, the lights in the rear view mirror, the foot light under the dash, and also provides battery backup power to the ECU. It's labeled in the shop manual as dedicated fuse #11. It is located under the hood in the main fuse box. Looking down at the fuse box standing in front of the car, fuses #11 and #12 are grouped together in a yellow clip located in the lower left hand corner of the fuse box. The lid of the fuse box labels fuse #11 as Room Lamp. | If pin 16 does not show power (it should have 12v at all times when measured against pin 5), the fuse powering this pin may be blown. The same fuse powers the key illumination ring, the lights in the rear view mirror, the foot light under the dash, and also provides battery backup power to the ECU. It's labeled in the shop manual as dedicated fuse #11. It is located under the hood in the main fuse box. Looking down at the fuse box standing in front of the car, fuses #11 and #12 are grouped together in a yellow clip located in the lower left hand corner of the fuse box. The lid of the fuse box labels fuse #11 as Room Lamp. | ||
| - | You can also do a basic check against the diag pin (pin 1) of the OBD-II connector. Check the voltage on the cars' OBD-II pin 1 without the DSMLink adapter attached. It should be ~5V or higher. If not, something is grounding it. This can make the ECU behave oddly, prevent DSMLink communication, and may cause problems with your locks. | + | You can also do a basic check against the diag pin (pin 1) of the OBD-II connector. Check the voltage on the cars' OBD-II pin 1 without the ECMLink adapter attached. It should be ~5V or higher. If not, something is grounding it. This can make the ECU behave oddly, prevent ECMLink communication, and may cause problems with your locks. |
| - | Please use care when checking the diagnostic port pins. If you jam the typical multimeter probes into the pins, you can stretch the pins enough that they may not make proper contact with the DSMLink connector. | + | Please use care when checking the diagnostic port pins. If you jam the typical multimeter probes into the pins, you can stretch the pins enough that they may not make proper contact with the ECMLink connector. |
| ==== DB9 cable checkout (V2 ONLY) ==== | ==== DB9 cable checkout (V2 ONLY) ==== | ||
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| The cable is a straight through cable. That means each male pin should buzz out to the corresponding female pin. If any do not, then that's probably why there's no communication with the ECU. Replace this cable with another straight through DB9 cable you can find at any reasonable computer store (Radio Shack, Best Buy, etc.) and you'll probably be back in business. | The cable is a straight through cable. That means each male pin should buzz out to the corresponding female pin. If any do not, then that's probably why there's no communication with the ECU. Replace this cable with another straight through DB9 cable you can find at any reasonable computer store (Radio Shack, Best Buy, etc.) and you'll probably be back in business. | ||
| - | |||
| - | ==== Laptop timing (V2 ONLY) ==== | ||
| - | It's **rare**, but sometimes the timing of laptop can make a difference on 2G connections. To test this, try adding the following to your ''dsmlink.prefs'' file (located in ''C:\Program Files\DSMLink'') with the dsmlink application closed. | ||
| - | |||
| - | interByteDelayMillis=40 | ||
| - | interCommandDelayMillis=40 | ||
| - | cmdReplyTimeoutMillis=1000 | ||
| - | |||
| - | After you add those items, open the DSMLink application again (remember: it must be closed/not running when you make those additions to the ''dsmlink.prefs'' file) and try to connect. | ||
| ===== 1G notes ===== | ===== 1G notes ===== | ||
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| For more wiring information related to the 12-pin diagnostic connector found in the 1G DSM and EVO1-3 cars, check the [[diagport-12pin|12-pin Diagnostic Port]] page. | For more wiring information related to the 12-pin diagnostic connector found in the 1G DSM and EVO1-3 cars, check the [[diagport-12pin|12-pin Diagnostic Port]] page. | ||
| + | |||
| ==== Pins in the diagnostic port ==== | ==== Pins in the diagnostic port ==== | ||
| - | This one's pretty rare, but it does happen. If one (or more) of the pins in the car's diagnostic connector is loose, then all your checks with the multimeter will still work fine. But when you plug in the DSMLink cable, that pin (or pins) can actually just "push in", away from the cable, and simply not making contact with the cable. Check to see if that might be happening. Try grabbing the pins in the car's diagnostic port one at a time with a pair of long nose pliers and seeing if there's any movement as you push in/pull out on them. | + | This one's pretty rare, but it does happen. If one (or more) of the pins in the car's diagnostic connector is loose, then all your checks with the multimeter will still work fine. But when you plug in the ECMLink cable, that pin (or pins) can actually just "push in", away from the cable, and simply not make contact with the cable. Check to see if that might be happening. Try grabbing the pins in the car's diagnostic port one at a time with a pair of long nose pliers and seeing if there's any movement as you push in/pull out on them. |
| ==== USB adapter (V2 ONLY) ==== | ==== USB adapter (V2 ONLY) ==== | ||
connectionproblem.txt ยท Last modified: 2024/03/15 11:16 (external edit)
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