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lc1install [2012/03/13 17:27]
twdorris created
lc1install [2024/03/15 11:16] (current)
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 ====== Recommended Innovate LC-1 Installation ====== ====== Recommended Innovate LC-1 Installation ======
  
-Installation of the [[http://​www.ecmtuning.com/​product_info.php?​cPath=28_29&​products_id=60|Innovate LC-1 wideband kit]] is pretty straight forward. ​ The [[http://​www.ecmtuning.com/​images/​forums/​lc1install/​LC-1_Manual.pdf|LC-1 Installation manual]] covers most of the basics for a general install. ​ We do, however, have a few specific suggestions ​and one grounding correction ​below.+ 
 +Installation of the Innovate LC-1 wideband kit is pretty straight forward. The [[https://​www.ecmtuning.com/​images/​forums/​lc1install/​LC-1_Manual.pdf|LC-1 Installation manual]] covers most of the basics for a general install. We do, however, have a few specific suggestions below, including a change to their grounding instructions.
  
 ===== ECU wires ===== ===== ECU wires =====
-The following is provided for reference in the sections that follow. ​ You can also get detailed pin out information off our [[ecuwiringinformation|ECU wiring page]].+The following is provided for reference in the sections that follow. ​ You can also get detailed pin out information, including ECU wire colors, ​off our [[ecuwiringinformation|ECU wiring page]].
  
 ^  ECU  ^ Connectors (viewed with male pins pointing out towards you  ^ ^  ECU  ^ Connectors (viewed with male pins pointing out towards you  ^
-|  1G  | {{1gconn.png}} ​ | +|  1G DSM  | {{1gconn.png}} ​ | 
-|  2G  | {{2gconn.png}} ​ |+|  2G DSM  | {{2gconn.png}} ​ | 
 +|  EVO1-3 ​ | {{e3conn.png}} ​ | 
  
 ===== Basic LC-1 wire assignments ===== ===== Basic LC-1 wire assignments =====
  
-^LC-1 wire  ^ Description ​ ^ Typical install point  ^ +^LC-1 wire  ^ Description ​ ^ Typical install point  ^ 1G DSM  ^ 2G DSM  ^ EVO1-3 ​ ^ 
-|Red  |12V supply ​ |Switched +12V source, fused  | +|Red  |12V supply ​ |Switched +12V source, fused  | 102 or 107  | 12 or 25  | 12 or 25  | 
-|Blue  |Heater Ground ​ |Chassis ground lug  | +|Blue  |Heater Ground ​ |Chassis ground lug  | 101 or 106  | 13 or 26  |  13 or 26  | 
-|White ​ |System Ground ​ |ECU's sensor ground ​ | +|White ​ |System Ground ​ |ECU's sensor ground ​ | 24  | 92  | 72  | 
-|Yellow ​ |Analog out 1  |Unused ​ | +|Yellow ​ |Analog out 1  |Unused ​ | N/A  | N/A  | N/A  | 
-|Brown ​ |Analog out 2  |Selected ECU input  | +|Brown ​ |Analog out 2  |Selected ECU input  | 4 (or 15, 16)  | 76 (or 73, 75, 85)  | 56  | 
-|Black ​ |Calibration wire   ​|Wired according to LC-1 notes  |+|Black ​ |Calibration wire   ​|Wired according to LC-1 notes  | N/A  | N/A  | N/A  | 
  
 ==== RED wire - notes ==== ==== RED wire - notes ====
-The red wire typically goes to a switched +12v source.  ​Off the ECU connector, ​+The red wire typically goes to a switched +12v source.  ​The ECU pins listed above are good choices if you're wiring near the ECU.  This wire would also typically be fused with at least a 5A fuse. 
 + 
 +==== BLUE wire - notes ==== 
 +A good, solid high-current grounding point here.  The ECU pins listed above are good choices or you can try a good, clean chassis ground point too. 
 + 
 + 
 + 
 + 
 +==== WHITE wire - notes ==== 
 +The LC-1 install notes suggest that you tie the BLUE and WHITE wires together. ​ They suggest this to keep things simple across all their different customer installations. ​ In our case, we want the best possible reference point for this wire.  And that's the ECU's sensor ground. 
 + 
 +The ECU pins listed above are good choices or you can use any of the sensor ground points under the hood too (MAF connector, ​TPS connector, MDP connector, etc.). ​ But, really, the best place would be right near the ECU since everything you need is right there anyway. 
 + 
 +The only major concern with connecting something to the ECU's sensor ground is that it might draw too much current and [[blownsensorground|blow the ECU's internal sensor ground track]]. ​ But we've measured current draw on the WHITE wire to be a measly 45-50 mA.  This will not cause any problems on the ECU's sensor ground circuit. 
 + 
 +**NOTE:** Do **NOT** connect the BLUE wire from the LC-1 to the ECU's sensor ground. ​ You will damage the ECU's sensor ground track if you do this.  **ONLY** connect the WHITE wire from the LC-1 to the ECU's sensor ground, **NOT** the BLUE. 
 + 
 + 
 + 
 +==== YELLOW and BROWN wire - notes ==== 
 +The YELLOW wire from the LC-1 is defined by default as the "​narrowband"​ simulation output of the LC-1.  Because you're using ECMLink, you can leave this wire disconnected (but isolated from ground with some heatshrink or electrical tape) and simply use ECMLink'​s [[v3narrowbandsim|narrowband simulation]] function instead. 
 + 
 +The BROWN wire is defined by default to have a mapping of 0V = 7.35 AFR (0.5 lambda) and 5V = 22.39 AFR (1.52 lambda). ​ This will work nicely using ECMLink'​s LC-1 datalogging item.  So run the BROWN wire into your selected ECU input for logging and then configure ECMLink to use this input for the LC-1 log item (ECU Inputs tab) and, optionally, for the narrowband simulation function as well. 
 + 
 + 
 +===== Sensor location ===== 
 +We generally recommend installing the LC-1's wideband sensor in the front O2 location directly off the turbo. ​ That is, of course, if you plan to run without a narrowband sensor installed in that location. ​ We have been running our sensor in that location for years without issue. ​ We do not believe there are any "​heat"​ concerns what so ever. 
 + 
 +===== Narrowband sensor ===== 
 +When running an LC-1 wideband, you can simply enable [[v3narrowbandsim|narrowband simulation]] in ECMLink and use nothing but the LC-1's analog output for both wideband data and narrowband closed-loop operation. 
 + 
 +However, if you have the option of running both a wideband sensor and a narrowband sensor, considering doing so.  This is probably more common on a 2G where you can run the narrowband sensor to the factory Front O2 pin while logging the wideband sensor on the factory Rear O2 pin, but there are enough inputs on a 1G to do the same thing. 
 + 
 +The advantage to running a factory narrowband is that you get a good data point for checking up on the LC-1's calibration. ​ The narrowband sensor is **going** to switch around stoichiometric. ​ It's really good at that.  So as long as you're running in closed loop operation using the factory narrowband sensor, you should see an LC-1 logged value of about stoich as well. 
 + 
 +It's not a big deal either way, though. ​ So don't go out of your way to make it happen. ​ If it's convenient, great, give it a shot.  If it's not, don't worry about it. 
lc1install.1331674066.txt.gz · Last modified: 2012/03/13 17:27 by twdorris