Common question: Which injectors do you recommend?
Common answer: It depends.
Full answer: It really does depend on your goals and situation! However, there are some general guidelines you can follow and we do have a few favorites that have worked extremely well for us and our customers. In particular, we've been working with Fuel Injector Clinic (FIC) for years developing a testing platform and strategy specifically tailored around the Mitsubishi OEM ECUs (click here to learn more). In that time, we've tested MANY, MANY injector combinations both on the stand and in the car. In essence, we know which ones work well for our cars and our ECUs. So instead of bombarding you with a zillion different combinations and options, we've whittled the list down to three Hi-Z options that we feel fill the range from grocery getter to serious racing machine.
Hi-Z vs. Lo-Z: First, I'm sure we'll be asked "why high impedance when our cars came with low from the factory?". Our ECUs (DSM and pre-X EVOs) only work with low impedance injectors because we have a resistor pack in the system! The ECUs actually work *directly* with high impedance injectors. So, really, the question should be "why are we still running low impedance injectors at all?". There are a lot of really good high impedance options now. Let's use them and let's get rid of that clunky resistor pack in the process.
Size matters: At least that's what she said. And she's right. You can't run 900 HP on E85 with four 1100 cc/min injectors. It just doesn't work. Then again, there's no reason to spend $700+ on a set of 2150s for your 500 HP gas-powered street machine either. Refer to the (conservative) chart below to pick a reasonable size injector for your realistic goals; but be real here. A 500-600 HP gasoline street machine is an unwieldy BEAST. If you really think you're going to run beyond that, consider the 1650s or 2150s. Otherwise, the 1100s are going to work extremely well for you in our opinion.
| ||Wheel HP / Crank HP |
| ||400 / 500 ||500 / 600 ||600 / 700 ||700 / 800 ||800+ / 900+ |
|E85 ||1100 ||1650 ||1650 ||2150 ||2150 |
|GAS ||1100 ||1100 ||1650 ||1650 ||2150 |
Caveats: All of these injectors are individually matched as a set and idle VERY well. However, there are a few things you have to keep in mind.
|Injector ||Caveats |
There's really not much to say on this one. The 1100 Hi-Z injector idles like stock, doesn't have any special fuel requirements and is a direct plug-compatible replacement. It's really the simplest option available if the sizing works for you.
Much like the 1100 injector, the 1650 idles nice, has no special fuel requirements and is plug-compatible with the DSM/EVO harness. The only goofy thing to mention here is about the name. Presumably due to inertial properties of fluid flow, there's a difference between pulsed flowrate and static flowrate. Most injectors are "named" by their pulsed flowrate. But the 1650s were named based on their static flow rate. Although they flow 1650 when held open, the number your ECU is going to want to see is closer to 1500-1550.
The 2150 injector is a great injector when you need serious flow. But there are serious considerations to keep in mind too. Primarily, you have to be careful not to run oxygenated fuels like Q16 or VP Import. Standard pump gas or E85...no problem.
Second, you must not leave these injectors sitting around
unused for long periods of time (weeks/months) after having
been used with alcohol-based fuels like E85. Corrossion can
develop internally, which can render the injector useless in
extreme cases! Included in each package is a care and use
instruction sheet. Do yourself a favor and READ it and FOLLOW
Also, the 2150 is not plug-compatible with the DSM/EVO
harness. You will need to either manually wire in the included
pigtails or just buy the plug-n-play adapters available below.
We strongly recommend the plug-n-play adapters...you're going
to want to slap these injectors in and start playing around.
You're not going to want to spend a bunch of time soldering and
Resistor pack delete: Unless you
want to hack up your factory harness and then manually twist and solder
everything together yourself, we highly recommend that you just get the
delete plug offered below. You simply disconnect your wiring harness
from the factory resistor pack and then insert this bypass plug into
place of the resistor pack. It's that easy. Plug-and-play and you're
back up and running in seconds rather spending an hour or more doing it